Trim nailer savvy: here's how to avoid common mistakes. (2024)

The first time I used a pneumatic trim gun, I was hooked. It'snot just that it was lightning fast. I loved being able to installhardwood moldings without predrilling to prevent splitting, and I washappy to leave my nail set mostly in my toolbox. But even better was thefact that nail guns allow you to hold a molding in exactly the rightspot with one hand while you instantly nail it in place with the other.And small nail guns called brad nailers allow you to quickly and easilysecure thin, fragile moldings without ruining them. That's a jobthat otherwise requires the dexterity of a surgeon.

But things tan go wrong. In this article, we'll show you themost common problems you'll encounter when nailing trim with a nailgun and the techniques you can use to prevent them.

1 PROBLEM: NAIL BLOWOUT

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2 SOLUTION: ANGLE THE GUN IN

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Blowouts Watch the angle

Once you master this angle technique, you'll have no troubleshooting nails exactly where you want them. Start by positioning thecenter of the nail gun tip exactly where you want the nail to enter thewood. Then carefully align the nail gun with the path you want the nailto take, just like when you line up a pool cue before striking the ball.

Photo 1 shows what can happen if you get careless and angle the gunwrong. When you're nailing into door jambs or other areas whereonly one side shows, point the nail gun slightly to the hidden sidewhere it won't show if the nail pops through (Photo 2).

Occasionally nails hit a knot or follow the grain--and pop outdespite your best effort. If this happens, break or cut off theprotruding nail with a nipper and use your nail set to recess theremainder.

3 PROBLEM: SPLIT TRIM AT THE ENDS

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SOLUTION: NAIL FARTHER FROM END End splitting

Place nails accurately

Driving nails with these tools is so simple that it's easy toget carried away and put nails where they don't belong. (Ask anypainter who has to putty all the extra holes!) With practice,you'll get a feet for where the nail comes out of the gun and beable to drive a nail precisely.

Photo 3 shows the result of placing a nail too close to the end ofa molding. The same thing will happen if you nail too close to the endof a baseboard, especially on short pieces. Make sure to keep nails afew inches from the end of moldings to avoid splitting the wood. Bradnailers, which drive thinner and shorter nails, are the exception. Withthese, you can usually nail within 1/2 in. of ends and 1/8 in. of edgeswithout splitting the wood.

4 PROBLEM: EXPOSED NAIL

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5 SOLUTION: USE THE RIGHT SIZE

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Wrong nail size Use the right size nail

Changing nail sizes in the middle of a job is bothersome. It'stempting to use the nails that are loaded and hope for the best. Butit's a bad idea (Photo 4). We should have used a 3/4-in. brad or atmost a 1-in. 16-gauge nail on this miter. A good rule of thumb is topick a nail long enough to go through the material you're fasteningand penetrate the underlying wood about 3/4 in. to 1 in. Allow morepenetration for heavy-duty jobs like nailing door jambs, and less forfine work like securing miters.

I own a 15-gauge nailer and a brad nailer and keep them bothconnected to separate hoses while I work. (Install a T-fitting at thecompressor to connect two hoses at once.) With this setup, it's aneasy matter to pick up the brad nailer for intricate jobs like pinningmiters (Photo 5).

6 PROBLEM: NAIL NOT SET

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7 SOLUTION: INCREASE PRESSURE

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Underdriven nails Adjust the pressure and nail length

Nails that don't set, or that are left sticking out (Photo 6),are usually the result of pressure that's too low, a nailthat's too long or an improperly adjusted nail gun. If the nail issticking way out like the one in Photo 6, try increasing the airpressure to the maximum allowable for your nail gun (90 to 100 lbs., orcheck your instructions). If the nail still won't set, try loadingshorter nails or brads.

The nosepiece on some nail guns is adjustable to help control howdeep the nail is set. Use this in conjunction with pressure adjustments(Photo 7) to fine-tune your nail gun until the head of the nail or bradis slightly recessed. Keep a nail set handy for the occasionalprotruding nailhead.

Don't bother pounding in nails that protrude more than 1/4 in.They'll just bend over and dent the trim. Instead, grab the shankand bend it back and forth until it snaps, or use a side-cutting pliers(Photo 6) to cut the nail near the surface. Then recess the rest with anail set.

Other problems you might encounter

Nail guns can be a little finicky. Here are a few common problemsand possible solutions:

* If the nail gun fires but no nail comes out even though you cansee nails in the clip, the nail feed mechanism may be sticking or thenails may be binding in the magazine. Remove the nails and lubricate themagazine and spring feed with spray silicone.

* If the nail gun doesn't fire even though it's loadedwith nails (you won't hear or feel the piston and driver move),it's probably not getting enough air. Make sure the compressor isplugged in and that the fuse or circuit breaker isn't tripped. Thencheck the gauge to be sure the pressure on both gauges is set highenough.

* If a nail jams in the nose, disconnect the hose from the gunbefore you do anything else. Remove the nails from the gun. Then openthe nose (check your instruction manual if you're not sure how) andremove the jammed nail.

Buying or renting nail guns

If you tan afford it, buy both a 15-gauge finish nailer and an18-gauge brad nailer. The two guns make a winning combination. The15-gauge nails, ranging in length from about 1-1/4 in. to 2-1/2 in., arestrong enough to secure door jambs and other heavy trim materials. Plus,the angled nose on most 15-gauge nailers allows you to nail in cornersand drive toenails more easily. Prices for 15-gauge nailers range from$230 to $350.

Fifteen-gauge nails are too thick for many fine nailing tasks. Andthis is where the 18-gauge brad nailer excels. They shoot very skinny5/8-in. to 1-1/2 in. long, 18-gauge brads. These are perfect for nailingmiters (Photo 2), nailing the skinny section of door or window casing tothe jamb (Photo 3) and other nailing jobs where a larger nail wouldsplit the wood or protrude through the other side of the material.Prices range from $70 to $200.

Having both guns connected to your compressor with separate hosesmeans you can nail the inside and outside edge of casings without havingto change nails. And you'll always have just the right size nailfor the job at hand.

If you don't do enough trim work to justify the expense of twonailers, a 16-gauge nail gun is a good choice, The 16-gauge nails are abit skinnier and not quite as strong as 15-gauge nails. But they'reless likely to split thin pieces of wood. Most 16-gauge nail guns willshoot nails ranging from 1 in. to 2-1/4 in. Prices range from $200 to$300.

Nail gun safety

Pneumatic nailers are unbelievably fast and powerful. One carelesssecond is all it takes to lose an eye or put a nail through your finger.Here are safety precautions you should take:

* Disconnect the air hose from the gun when you're loadingnails or clearing a jam, or when you're not using the nail gun.

* Wear safety glasses and have your helpers and bystanders wearthem too.

* Keep children away from nail guns. Disconnect the gun and put itout of reach when you're not using it.

* Keep your fingers well away from the nail's path. Use clampsif necessary.

* Never rest the gun on top of a ladder.

* Keep your finger off the trigger when you're not firing thegun.